The nippy wind of Russian Fashion Week
“Russia can not be understood with the mind,
nor is it measured with the common meter:
Russia is made in its own way,
in it we can only believe.”
(Fedor Ivanovic Tjutchev)
In this way the first verse of the lyric of Tjutchev reads, a Russian poet of the nineteenth century and it is in this verse, entered into the common and spoken use of the people, the essence of the Russian motherland is enclosed. A land of irrational and unpredictable character. And Russian fashion perfectly reflects the essence of this great nation.
During the Russian Fashion Week two lines emerged. On the one hand a real detachment between two worlds, the classic and the innovative one, and on the other the underground world.
On the catwalks the contrast was clear. On one side the classic fashion world, to which Russia is accustomed, on the other side, the stylists defined as “incoming”, expression of a much more chaotic fashion that comes from teenagers and young people who create “hype”.
The second line of thought, instead, has put the accent on the underground world, very urban and underground, a world that thanks to some designers becomes mainstream.
Many of the themes that have been on the catwalk of Russia Fashion Week in these four days. Some collections were inspired by the military style, with non-binary details to highlight masculinity that nowadays are brittle and delicate.
Instead, an emerging designer gave life to a collection totally inspired by Shuma’s life, with a focus on garments and embroidery. Other designers have dealt with more current issues with apocalyptic atmospheres and global warnings pointing to the reuse of fabrics, the next frontier of fashion.
The collection is inspired by the perestroika and bucolic allure of the villages of the early twenty-first century where they have excelled laces.
The collections inspired by streetwear are very contrasting and completely different, very pure and prevalently in red and black and those in which the neoprene has prevailed in bright and fluorescent colors. A lot of attention was then given to the collections dedicated entirely to people with disabilities, a theme that for some years has been gaining strength also in the other most famous fashion catwalks and that many designers have already created. We talk about Adaptive Fashion, beyond prejudices, disability as uniqueness.
Refreshing and free, the new Russian fashion presents an experimental character, which is certainly influenced by a past and a socialist heritage, but in reality represents pure avant-garde.